Junko Tabei is a Japanese mountain-climber who, on May 16, 1975, became the first woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest.
Early climbing history
After obtaining a degree in English literature from Showa Women's University where she was a member of the mountain climbing club, Tabei formed the "Ladies Climbing Club: Japan (LCC)" in 1969. She has climbed Mount Fuji as well as the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps, among others. By 1972, Tabei was a recognized mountain climber in Japan.
Everest expedition
The team of JWEE (Japanese Women’s Everest Expedition) consisted of fifteen, mostly working women including teachers, a computer programmer and a juvenile counselor. Two of them, including Tabei, were mothers. JWEE, headed by Eiko Hisano, was a part of the Joshi Tohan Kurabu (Ladies Climbing Club: LCC) founded in 1969. After successful summit of Annapurna III on May 19, 1970 by Tabei and Hiroko Hirakawa,LCC decided to attack Mount Everest. Although they obtained last-minute funding from Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper and Nippon Television, all the members still had to pay an amount that was almost equal to Japan’s average salary. To save money, they would use recycled car sheets to sew up water-proof pouches and over-gloves. They purchased goose feather from China and made their own sleeping bags. Students at school collected unused packets of jam for their teachers.
After a long training period, they began the expedition early in 1975 when they traveled to Katmandu. They used the same route Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay took in 1953.
In early May the women were camping at 6,300 meters when an avalanche struck their camp. The women, including Junko and the guides, were buried under the snow. Tabei lost consciousness for approximately six minutes until her Sherpa guide dug her out. Twelve days after the avalanche, Tabei became the first female to reach the summit of Mount Everest.
Later activities
On 28 June 1992 Tabei finished the climb of Puncak Jaya to become the first woman to complete the Seven Summits. Tabei had a goal to climb the highest peak in every country in the world and continues to work on ecological concerns. Tabei is the director of Himalayan Adventure Trust of Japan, an organization working on a global level to preserve mountain environments.
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